Pediatric Dermocosmetics: Age, Science, Responsibility

Pediatric Dermocosmetics: Agorà Calls for Responsibility in the Use of Cosmetics for Minors and Highlights the Importance of Age-Appropriate Skincare Routines

Agorà – the Italian Society of Aesthetic Medicine – draws attention to an issue of growing clinical and social relevance: the use of dermocosmetic products from an early age. Increased exposure to digital content and adult-oriented beauty trends is driving a progressively earlier and not always appropriate adoption of skincare routines among children and adolescents.

Scientific evidence shows that pediatric skin presents biological and morphological characteristics that differ from adult skin: a more fragile barrier, higher permeability, and increased sensitivity to cosmetic actives. ^[1],[2] This structural immaturity exposes children to a greater risk of irritation, dermatitis, and photosensitivity when products not formulated for their age group are used improperly.^[3],[4]

For healthy skin, pediatric dermocosmetics must be simple, essential, and aimed at protecting the skin barrier. Recommendations from scientific societies and recent literature highlight three key pillars:^[5]

-Gentle cleansing, using non-foaming products that respect the skin’s pH.

-Hydration with well-tolerated emollient ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin, plant butters, and oils, which support the maturation and function of the hydrolipidic film.

-Age-appropriate photoprotection, introduced from the first months of life according to dermatological guidance.

In pathological or post-infectious conditions—such as dermatitis, infantile acne, or post-chickenpox sequelae—the use of specific active ingredients may be necessary and appropriate, but must always be evaluated by a dermatologist, who determines indication, concentration, and frequency of use.^[6],[7]

Agorà also emphasizes an essential ethical component: educating young people to develop a proper relationship with skincare. Pediatric skincare has the purpose of prevention,

protection, and supporting physiological skin development; it must not become an early adoption of aesthetic routines designed for adulthood. The premature use of retinoids, exfoliating acids, or anti-age formulations—now increasingly promoted in digital trends—is not clinically indicated and may be harmful to developing skin.

Skincare is not a game; it requires awareness, appropriateness, and correct information.Protecting pediatric skin means safeguarding the child’s health today and fostering responsible habits that will accompany them throughout growth.

Agorà reaffirms its commitment to promoting communication based on scientific evidence and countering the spread of routines that are unsupported by data or inappropriate for pediatric age.

Riferences

[1]Goff GK, Stein SL. Cosmeceuticals in the Pediatric Population Part I: A Review of Risks and

Available Evidence. Pediatr Dermatol. 2025 Mar-Apr;42(2):221-227. doi: 10.1111/pde.15866. Epub2025 Feb 9. PMID: 39925031; PMCID: PMC11950811.

[2] Stamatas GN, Nikolovski J, Luedtke MA, Kollias N, Wiegand BC. Infant skin microstructure assessed in vivo differs from adult skin in organization and at the cellular level. Pediatr Dermatol. 2010 Mar-Apr;27(2):125-31. doi: 10.1111/j.1525-1470.2009.00973.x. Epub 2009 Oct 4. PMID: 19804498.

[3] Cosmeceuticals in the Pediatric Population Part II: Ethical Dilemmas and Patient Talking PointsGabrielle Keller Goff, Sarah L. Stein - https://doi.org/10.1111/pde.15867

[4]Choi, E. (2025). Skin Barrier Function in Neonates and Infants. Allergy, Asthma & Immunology Research, 17, 32 - 46. https://doi.org/10.4168/aair.2025.17.1.32.

[5] Wilborn, D., Amin, R., Kottner, J., & Blume-Peytavi, U. (2023). Skin Care in Neonates and Infants: A Scoping Review. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 36, 51 - 66. https://doi.org/10.1159/000529550.

[6] Kim, H., Ko, J., Suh, D., Ryu, H., Baek, E., & Cho, S. (2024). Addressing the Unmet Need in Acne Management: A Novel Dermocosmetics Guideline Tailored to Asian Patient Subgroups. Cosmetics. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060220.

[7]Blume-Peytavi, U., Lavender, T., Jenerowicz, D., Ryumina, I., Stalder, J., Torrelo, A. e Cork, M. (2016). Raccomandazioni da una tavola rotonda europea sulle migliori pratiche per una sana cura della pelle dei neonati. Dermatologia pediatrica , 33, 311-321. https://doi.org/10.1111/pde.12819 .

[8]Schachner, L., Andriessen, A., Benjamin, L., Bree, A., Lechman, P., Pinera-Llano, A., Kircik, L., & Hebert, A. (2021). The Importance of Skincare for Neonates and Infants: An Algorithm.. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 20 11, 1195-1205 . https://doi.org/10.36849/jdd.6219.

[9]Wilborn, D., Amin, R., Kottner, J. e Blume-Peytavi, U. (2023). Cura della pelle nei neonati e nei bambini: una revisione approfondita. Farmacologia e fisiologia della pelle , 36, 51-66. https://doi.org/10.1159/000529550 .

[10]Nowicki, R. et al. (2020). Atopic dermatitis. Interdisciplinary diagnostic and therapeutic recommendations of the Polish Dermatological Society, Polish Society of Allergology, Polish Pediatric Society and Polish Society of Family Medicine. Part I. Prophylaxis, topical treatment and phototherapy. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology/Postȩpy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 37, 1 - 10. https://doi.org/10.5114/ada.2020.93423.

[11] Thyssen, J., Halling, A., Schmid-Grendelmeier, P., Guttman-Yassky, E., & Silverberg, J. (2023). Comorbidità della dermatite atopica: cosa dicono le prove?. The Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology . https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaci.2022.12.002 .